VISIT AEGADIAN ISLANDS: FAVIGNANA, LEVANZO AND MARETTIMO

VISITING THE ISLAND OF FAVIGNANA

THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO VISIT FAVIGNANA

→ Ferry + bike or scooter: the most complete way to explore Favignana is to take a ferry and then rent a bike (ideally electric) or a scooter upon arrival. Ferry tickets can be purchased at the ports of Trapani or Marsala, or online through Liberty Lines. We strongly recommend booking at least the day before — especially your return ticket — to avoid getting stuck on the island. Ferries are often fully booked, even outside the high season, as many people commute regularly to and from the islands for work.

Once you arrive at the port of Favignana, you’ll easily find bike and scooter rental shops.
Our favorite choice is an e-bike. The battery is more than enough for the whole day. The island and the distances feel too small for a fast and noisy scooter, yet possibly too big for a regular bike – if you would like to explore everything or if it’s very hot.
It’s also possible to attach a small trailer for children or cooperative pets (the streets are, in parts, too dangerous for a small child on a bike, and the distances are too long for a dog to run.)

On the islands of Levanzo and Marettimo, exploring is mainly done on foot, as they are smaller and there are hardly any real roads.

→ Rent a boat: If you’re less interested in exploring Favignana inland (or Levanzo for that matter) and would rather enjoy the numerous turquoise coves, we recommend renting a boat for half a day or a full day directly from the San Teodoro marina (just 3 km from the kite spot). The crossing takes about 20 minutes, after which you can swim in the wild, crystal-clear bays of your chosen Aegadian Island.

To rent a gommone — a small motorboat for 5–6 people — no license is required.
As mentioned above, renting a gommone for the day costs around €180–250, fuel included. It’s a 40-horsepower boat, which is perfectly sufficient to reach Favignana or Levanzo.
We write about reaching the third (and most remote) of the Egadi Islands — Marettimo — below.

Favignana is the largest of the Egadi Islands, the most developed, and the most popular for tourism (although western Sicily cannot really be described as overcrowded with tourists).
The island can be divided into three areas:
the port and the only town on the island, and the eastern and western sides, separated by a small mountain ridge.

THE TOWN OF FAVIGNANA

In 1874, Ignazio Florio from Palermo purchased Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo for two million lire, before turning Favignana into a modern fishing center. He developed the famous canned tuna preserved in olive oil, which soon reached tables all across Europe. Local businesses faced little competition for a long time, and even the decline of the Florio family fortune and the eventual sale of the property did not stop production.

The tuna cannery operated for more than 100 years, though it has been closed for the past 50 years. The abandoned building was deteriorating until it was purchased by the Sicilian region, renovated, and transformed into a beautiful museum.

You can admire the former private residence of the Florio family on the port of Favignana — the Palazzo Florio — which is now the town hall and a museum dedicated to the Florio family’s presence on the island.

There are also a few shopping streets near the port worth exploring. Beyond the typical tourist shops, you’ll find some charming boutiques selling decor and clothing. Around Piazza Europa and Piazza Madrice, there are several pleasant bars and restaurants. We recommend Restaurant 210 Grammi and the stylish lounge bar/restaurant/concept store Camparia, which offers a refined experience in a chic Mediterranean setting.

THE EASTERN SIDE OF FAVIGNANA

Beyond the town itself, the rest of the island is well worth exploring. On the eastern side, you’ll find the famous Cala Rossa (“Red Cove”), one of the most beautiful spots on the island. Several theories explain the origin of its name. One legend refers to the war between the Carthaginians and the Romans: the final battle of the First Punic War (241 BC) took place off the coast of the Egadi Islands. According to the story, the waters around Favignana turned red with the blood of fallen Carthaginian soldiers.

Another, also dramatic explanation relates to the island’s long tuna fishing tradition. For centuries, local fishermen practiced the “mattanza” (literally ‘slaughter’ or ‘killing’ in Italian), sometimes called the “sea corrida.” It took place in late spring, when bluefin tuna returned to spawn. When these huge fish were trapped in vast nets, they were killed with harpoons by hordes of men, and the water would turn red — which particularly visible in large bays such as Cala Rossa.
Mattanza has not been practiced for about a decade now, but we notice that it remains deeply rooted in the culture of the Egadi Islands and the wider region of western Sicily. Despite its brutality, it was an important, traditional, and annual event.

Not far from Cala Rossa, there is an interesting place that is rarely discovered by visitors: the Garden of the Impossible. It was created in the 1960s from the ambitious vision of one woman — Maria Gabriella Campo — who decided to transform a former quarry (which at the time was being used merely as a landfill) into a botanical garden. Today, the site offers a very pleasant walk among art, nature, and panoramic views. Hundreds of cacti, Mediterranean plants, and landscape installations blend harmoniously into the multi-level rock formations.

As you explore the trails of Favignana, you can also visit Blue Marino beach and dive into the crystal-clear waters from the surrounding rocks.
This part of the island is dotted with caves. They are not natural caves, but remnants of sandstone extraction known as “tufo.” Tufo is the main building material of Sicilian houses — terribly poor-quality, by the way.
For a break or lunch, you can head to Cala Azzurra, Lido Burrone, Calamoni, or Cala Grande — all offering restaurants and cafés, though they can be quite busy in summer.

You can also climb the mountain that divides the island in two, reaching 314 meters above sea level at the Castle of Santa Caterina via the Monte Santa Caterina trail. If you’re visiting Favignana just for the day, this hike may not be a priority. The castle itself is in ruins and is rather ugly – the reward for the hike is the panoramic view from the summit.

THE WILDER WESTERN SIDE OF THE ISLAND

When you arrive in Favignana, it’s hard to imagine that beyond the mountain rising opposite the port lies another part of the island — just as large as the eastern coast, yet far more untamed. However, once you pass through the tunnel carved beneath the mountain, the scenery changes noticeably: the landscape opens up, the crowds thin out, and the vegetation becomes drier and more rugged.

The beaches and coves here are generally less crowded, as they are further from the port. Spots such as Cala Rotonda and Cala del Pozzo are especially worth the visit. You’ll also find a few small beach bars where it’s easy to spend hours by the water in a peaceful setting, far from the busy atmosphere of the port or Cala Rossa. We particularly recommend Cibo, which offers refined cuisine in quite an idyllic environment.

This side of the island is rockier, and access to the water can be more challenging in some areas. However, it’s also where snorkeling is at its best — especially around the lighthouse point.

VISITING THE ISLAND OF LEVANZO

It is the smallest of the Egadi Islands. Wild and peaceful, it has only one small village (Levanzo) and just a handful of residents.
As in Marettimo, time here is best spent hiking through the shrubs and enjoying the views — or gently rocking on a boat.

The northern coast feels especially untouched, with denser vegetation and an even more rugged landscape. After a short walk, you can swim at Cala Tramontana. If you prefer an easier stroll, Cala Minnola is only about a 15-minute walk from the port.

One thing sets Levanzo apart from its sister islands — the coastal cave La Grotta del Genovese, where Neolithic paintings depicting humans and animals were discovered in 1949. They are dated to around 9,200 BC. The cave is open to visitors; it can be explored on foot or admired from a boat. It is located northwest of the port.

VISITING THE ISLAND OF MARETTIMO

Marettimo is the most intimate, peaceful, and wild of the Egadi Islands — and also the farthest from the Sicilian coast.
It has just one small village gathered around the port, home to about a hundred residents. With its blue-shuttered houses, ceramic name plaques, and quiet streets free of cars and motorbikes, the island has a timeless charm. Only the harbor area sees a bit of activity.
Because it is the most remote and least populated of the three islands, Marettimo is home to several endemic plant and animal species.

The crossing to Marettimo takes less than an hour and a half, but it’s best to plan ahead, as ferries run only three to four times a day. Also check the weather forecast before departure: in case of storms or strong winds, ferry services may be canceled.

You can also reach the island independently, as with Favignana and Levanzo, by renting a boat — but Marettimo requires a 200-horsepower boat, and the daily rental with fuel included costs around €400. That said, this type of boat is larger and can accommodate a dozen or more people, so if you gather a group, the cost per person is not excessive. Renting a larger boat requires a boating license.
Important! Before going independently to Marettimo, you should check which parts of the island are restricted and where it is not allowed to approach the shore (info here). In practice — unfortunately — this applies to some of the most spectacular caves and coves on the west coast. These restrictions concern Marettimo only (not the other two islands) and apply specifically to tourists. Therefore, if you’re planning to visit this island, we recommend taking the ferry and then joining a little boat tour around the island with a local, who is allowed to approach all areas freely.

Marettimo means “sea thyme,” and the scent of thyme and sun-warmed Mediterranean herbs fills the air, creating a uniquely sensory atmosphere.

The island is watched over by the Punta Troia Castle, which can be reached on foot from the port area. The distance may seem short, but you should allow around three hours for the walk (both ways). A hike of similar duration leads to the island’s highest peak — Pizzo Falcone (686 m above sea level). Along this trail, just above the village, you’ll also find the Byzantine church known as Villa Romana, dating back to the 1st century AD.

Marettimo’s true treasures are its wild coves, deep blue waters, and countless sea caves. A boat trip around the island is the best thing to do. Organizing one is easy — at the port (after arriving on the island by ferry), you simply find the first person who clearly isn’t a tourist — and ask for a boat trip. Expect to pay around €20–30 per person for a three-hour excursion. You’ll swim in crystal-clear waters, admire cliffs, and explore some of the island’s 400-plus caves, including the Grotta del Presepe, known for its stalactites and stalagmites. With a bit of luck, you may even spot wild goats on the rocky slopes.

Be sure to bring drinks, snacks, and basic snorkeling gear (at least a mask and fins).
At the port, you’ll find freshly caught fish and seafood — perfect for dinner after your boat trip.

Halfway between Trapani and Levanzo, there are two tiny islands:
– Maraone – 700 by 50 meters, one abandoned house, many seagulls, entry to the island forbidden,
– and privately owned Formica, with an old tuna factory, an old church, two heliports, the headquarters of the therapeutic community for drug addicts “Mondo X”, and one official habitant of the island.